Thursday, November 23, 2006

Trading my Momos for Bananas

Here is the beauty of traveling in India (and the convenience of budget airlines like Air Deccan): you can go from watching the sunrise over Mt. Everest to swimming in the Arabian sea in the matter of a day and a very reasonable amount of Rupees.

On Tuesday, I turned my backpack upside down, put my fleece jacket, hiking shoes and wool socks at the bottom and dug out my mosquito net, my flip flops and my swimsuit. Instead of eating momos, dal bhat and chow mein, I'm eating seafood briyani, fish curry and plenty of bananas. I've covered myself in so much DEET that I'll probably grow a third eye or a tail.

Welcome to South India.

I arrived in Trivandrum, the capital of Kerala on Tuesday night. I stepped off the plane, my hair went limp, and I started sweating. It's quite the change from the cool Himalayan breezes, but I'm excited to be here. Kerala is an incredible part of India. It's beautiful with it's cliffside beachers, backwaters and spice and tea plantations. It's the most literate state in India (around 90 percent), boasts a progressive attitude toward women and was the first state to elect a Communist government. Like in the mountains, I feel more relaxed here too, sort of like when you travel to the southern U.S. Everyone is just so damn nice. Southern India is definitely more gentle than the north.

It's not without its problems though. Much of Kerala's male population has to leave the state to find work; many go to the Middle East and send back money. Also, Kerala has one of the highest rates of farmer suicide in the country, which is part of why I'm here.

In addition to lounging on the beach in Varkala, exploring the backwaters in Alleppey, and eating plentious amounts of seafood in Kochi, I'm researching a story about the growth of homestays and rural and eco-tourism in the state, particularly in the hardest hit rural areas as a way for farmers to supplement their income. Yes, it's a real assignment, paid and everything, for a national consumer magazine. I don't want to say much more, but I'll keep you all posted on when and where you can read this hopefully fabulous story.

As Mark Twain said, "The secret to success is to make your vocation your vacation." It's good work when you can get it.

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