Backwater Cruising

Every region of India has its tourist "must do": a boatride along the ghats in Varanasi, drinking tea in Darjeeling, and the Taj Mahal in Agra (this is a universal India "must do," actually). In Kerala, it is the backwater cruise.

From the coast on inland, many of Kerala's villages and towns are linked by a large network of backwaters. You could travel from the south all the way up to Kochi by boat, a much more relaxing and enjoyable mode of travel than the bus or train. You can choose from a wide range of boats for your trip from the public ferry to a houseboat designed like a traditional Kettuvallam, a rice barge (see photo) to the "made for tourists" tour boat. If you want to coast through the water in ultimate style, you could book a three-day trip on the ultra-luxe houseboat, the Discovery, from the Malabar House for 50,000 Rs (approx. $1,100 USD), which is more than my round-trip ticket to India cost. Someday...

Being the budget backpackers that we are, my friend Rupert and I opted for the public ferry to save a few rupees and get the local experience. We joined the Keralaites riding to work, school and to see family along the backwaters. Like the Ganga, these waterways are an instrinsic part of life for the locals. It's their mode of transport, where they bathe, brush their teeth, wash their dishes and play. There are boats acting as floating shops bringing locals their supplies, and fishermen looking for the catch of the day.

After having sampled just about every mode of transport available in this country, I think the boat is the way to go.