If I Were an Expat...

...I'd live in Fort Cochin. One local expat said that Fort Cochin, a neighborhood on one of Kochi's peninsulas, is like an emerging SoHo. I don't know if I'd go that far, but it is a charming, peaceful and beautiful place to explore.

The area's charm comes from its eclectic mix of religious and cultural history. One local told me that there was almost a perfect balance of Hindus, Muslims and Christians in Fort Cochin. There is even a Jewish Quarter established by Dutch settlers who mingled with colonials from Portugal and England. The fragrant, sinus-clearing area around "Jew Town" is the hub of the spice market.

The Chinese fishing nets are the signature sights of Fort Cochin. At sunset, the beach behind the nets is the place to be for locals (and tourists). Families and newlyweds eat ice cream, listen to music and wade out into the algae-infested water while the sun dips into the Arabian sea.

What I found most interesting about Fort Cochin, though, was its blossoming modern arts scene, its selection of fine restaurants and the hidden flagship shops for emerging fashion designers. Kashi Art Cafe is a great place to mingle with Fort Cochin's intellectuals and a visit to its gallery down the street, Kashi Art Gallery, is a great way to see some of India's best modern artists. My friend Rupert and I splurged for dinner at the trendy Malabar House, which is considered one of India's best boutique hotels. We put on the fanciest clothes we could dig out of our backpacks (well, the least wrinkled anyway) and felt like we were splurging on the experience, although in the end we spent less than $20 on a fine three-course meal and wine. The co-owner of the Kashi Art Gallery, who is an expat from Michigan, said that the growing scene of hip, modern culture in Fort Cochin is important for visitors to see and appreciate because so many travelers come to India to see ancient history, but it's equally important to see the forward momentum of the country as well.