The Best Dal in Life is Free

I spent the first two days of Diwali vacation in Amritsar, a city in Western Punjab famous for its Sikh Golden Temple and its proximity to the only open border crossing with Pakistan. The Golden Temple is astoundingly beautiful and serene. The golden structure glitters in the sun and looks like its floating in the tank of water (or "pool of immortal nectar"). Sikhs from all over make pilgrimages to see the holy temple and bathe in the tank's ghats.

The Sikh pilgrims and those who help maintain the temple were incredibly friendly and enthusiastic about explaining their faith and history. I stopped in the information office to inquire about getting to the border that evening, stayed for a cup of tea and conversation, and an hour later, emerged with more literature about Sikhism than I could read in a lifetime.

When you visit the temple, you can stay there free of charge in one of the Gurudwaras or pay as little as 50 Rs to stay in one of their more private rooms in a guesthouse. You can also eat in their community kitchen for free (although if you're not a pilgrim, you should leave a small donation). The founder of the religion, Guru Nanak instituted pangat (dining together), a practice that enourages equality. Basic meals of chappati and the best dal I've had yet are served to diners who sit together in long rows on the floor, regardless of caste, economic or social status, or religion.